How restricted are homeowners in a historic district?

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What exactly is the problem that our neighborhood faces for which HPRB's incredibly detailed restrictions on homeowners are the solution?  The Historic Preservation Review Board's (HPRB's) guidelines show the extreme control that the agency will have over every detail of  your house.  Below are quoted excerpts from some of HPRB's Guidelines pamphlets about Windows, Basement Stairs and Windows, Solar Panels, and Landscape Features.  We didn't make this up; you can find all of HPRB's Guidelines at https://planning.dc.gov/node/1183905.  

HPRB exercises particularly tight control of windows in a historic district.  Virtually every detail (but color) is specified by HPRB rules.  If you need to change the materials, dimensions, or other features of a window, you are likely out of luck.  Below are a few excerpts that give you an idea of the detailed requirements, from HPRB's  pamphlet, "Window Repair and Replacement: Preservation and Design Guidelines," found here.  In a historic district, choice goes down, costs go up!   Here they are:

•  "Replacement windows on primary elevations of historic buildings should replicate the appearance of the historic windows. 
• Historic windows on primary elevations should be repaired unless it can be documented that repair is not a reasonable option.
• Replacement windows on primary elevations should closely match the historic appearance. New windows should fit properly within the original openings, replicate the pane configuration, dimensions and profiles of the sash, framing elements and muntins, and match the finish and visual qualities of the historic windows .
•  Replacement windows on primary elevations should properly fit and fill historic window openings to match the historic appearance. New installations should not result in an increase in the size of the exterior framing or diminution in the amount of glass.
•  Expanding or reducing the size of window openings, blocking up, or creating new openings on primary elevations of historic buildings is not appropriate.
• Muntins [i.e., strips of wood separating panes] on multi-light windows should be integral (not removable) and have an exterior profile. False muntins located between two panes of glass and removable muntins are not appropriate.
• Muntins on replacement windows should match the exterior profile of a putty-glazed window, the width, and any other visual qualities of the originals.
• Replacement windows on secondary elevations that are architecturally composed or contribute to the overall character and design of the property should closely match the character and visual qualities of the historic window.
• The visual appearance of replacement windows should match the material and finish of the original windows.
• Vinyl windows do not replicate the profiles, dimensions or finish of historic windows and are not appropriate replacements for windows on primary elevations of historic property.
• Mullions [wood piece that separates two abutting windows] should be maintained and repaired; if repair is not possible, they should be replaced in kind. Removing a mullion and installing two paired windows without a new mullion is not appropriate, as it changes the proportions of the windows."

Do you think now or someday you might want to make any change to your basement stairs or add new stairs, windows, or a new entrance?  Here are some excerpts from HPRB's "Preservation and Design Guidelines for Basement Entrances and Windows," found here.   Choice goes down, costs go up! 

• "New basement entrances should be visually discreet and subordinate to the main Entrance.
• New basement doors should typically be positioned directly below the primary entrance and stair or, if this is not possible, in an otherwise inconspicuous location.
• Basement entrances in a projecting bay are almost never appropriate because they cannot be shielded from public view, result in excavation that disrupts the visual grounding of the bay, and become a primary focus of the façade.
• Walkways to basement entrances should be shared with the walk serving the main entrance to retain the maximum amount of green space in the front yard. Separate walks for main and basement entrances are generally not appropriate.
• Stairs to basement entrances should typically run parallel to and not project substantially further than the main entrance stair.
• New basement entrances should not result in alterations to main entrance stairs, porches, or
• projecting bays 
• Even if a deteriorated stair or porch requires repair, selective replacement of elements, or disassembly for reconstruction, this does not constitute grounds for altering these features to provide new basement entrances. Repaired historic stairs and porches should be reconstructed to the same level of craftsmanship and should accurately replicate the original or historic condition.
• Original or character-defining entrance stairs, porches and projecting bays should be preserved and not be altered to accommodate new basement entrances.
• Changing the rise to run ratio, narrowing treads or landings, reconfiguring the orientation or shape, and raising the elevation of stairs or landings are not appropriate alterations for historic entrance stairs. 
• Basement entrances and areaways should be subordinate to and not dominate the setting of historic property unless significant alterations to the site or street have fundamentally changed the original condition.
• It may not be possible to provide an exterior stair on properties where the first floor is close to grade, where the building is close to the sidewalk, or where the basement stair would be exposed at eye level from the sidewalk.
• Some increase in the minimum size of areaways for trash storage or utility meters may be appropriate if they can be accommodated by no other means.
• Basement windows should be compatible with the architectural character of the building, and window wells should have minimal visual impact on the site
• Alterations to basement window openings should be done in a manner that does not change the basic window pattern, apparent size, or relationship with upper story windows. Like basement areaways, window wells should be the minimum size necessary and clearly subordinate to a property’s site. 
• Windows should remain smaller than and subordinate to upper story windows even if basement sills are lowered. 
• Raising the lintel height and widening basement window openings are generally not compatible alterations for historic property.
• Window wells for basement windows should be kept to the minimum dimensions required by code.
• Fences around window wells are discouraged. Decreasing the depth of a window well or providing an alternative means of protection may be required."

Many of us now or in the future will be thinking of installing solar panels.  It is possible to do so in a historic district. But the environmental benefits of solar panels are, like virtually everything else in a historic district, secondary to HPRB's aesthetic choices.  The rules, which can be found here and are copied below, make it impossible to install solar panels in some circumstances (for example, on a southern-facing roof on the front of your house).  In other circumstances, you would have to install fewer solar panels, more expensive panels or a more expensive or less efficient installation, because (a) the rules sometimes prohibit panels extending to roof edge, (b) sometimes require panels to be flush with the roof,  (c) sometimes preclude the best orientation to the sun, and (d) sometimes require a color match that can be less efficient or more expensive.  For more info on why the color of a solar panel is significant, see for example here or google it yourself.  For a case study, see this website here (Sometimes You Don't Want to be on the Sunny Side of the Street).   Here are the guidelines:

• Retain original character-defining  roof features and finish materials.
• Install green roofs and solar panels  so that they do not result in a perceptible change in the building’s  massing, height or roofline, as seen from public street view, and do not  cover or obscure distinctive roof features or materials on primary  elevations
• For buildings with flat roofs, locate  green roofs and solar installations back from the front edge of the roof  (and from the exposed side edge for corner properties) to minimize      visibility from public street view.
• For buildings with sloped roofs, locate solar installations on secondary elevations to  minimize their  visibility from public street view. If visible from public street view, use low-profile panels set flush with the roof and in a complementary color with the roof finish to avoid a discordant appearance.
• If it is necessary to install panels on a primary elevation to achieve solar efficiency, installations should  be pulled away from roof edges and ridges, compositionally balanced on the  roof, and not result in irregular “saw-tooth” compositions. 
• Use low-profile panels set coplanar and flush with the roof, and panel and panel frames      that match the color of the surrounding roof. The use of a solar skin or solar shingles that match the texture and appearance of the roof is encouraged.
• Conduit for connections to electric meters should be run inside the building or in a manner that is not prominent on a primary elevation 

While HPRB does not have control over plantings, it does impose its aesthetic choices on other landscape features.  The rules, which can be found here and a few of which are copied below, require in-kind replacement of sidewalks and paths -- i.,e., don't try replacing a concrete walk with flagstones, as many houses in our area have done.  See the case study here . . Likewise, there are significant limits on altering fences and retaining walls, and garages and sheds, Does our neighborhood really need a city agency to ensure that we are faithfully replicating the "profile and width of mortar joints"?  Here are a selection of the guidelines:

• If the sidewalk or path is located in a front yard subject to the Parking Act, the materials must be impermeable. Thus gravel or other non-impermeable surface materials may not be used.
• Existing sidewalks and paths should be maintained and, if necessary, repaired or replaced in-kind, that is in the same material as the existing. This is particularly important for sidewalks and paths located in front yards or in areas that can be seen from a public street. If new sidewalks or paths are added, they should be located and constructed of materials that are compatible with the historic building, its property and the neighborhood.
• Existing fences and retaining walls that contribute to the appearance of historic buildings, their landscapes and neighborhoods should be maintained and if necessary, repaired or replaced in-kind.
• In rear yards, vertical board, board-on-board and board-and-batten fences are appropriate.
• The design and materials of replacement retaining walls should be based on existing walls on the property, in the neighborhood or on documentary or photographic evidence. Particular attention should be paid to the coursing and to the profile and width of mortar joints.
• Altering an existing garage or shed that contributes to the character of the main building or landscape should only be done if the proposed alteration is compatible with the design, materials and other character-defining attributes of the secondary building, main building and landscaping.
• Lightly spalled stone [i.e., where the surface has broken off] may be patched with a cement-based patching compound, colored to match the existing stone as closely as possible. Heavily spalled stone, spalled stone steps and spalled brick should be replaced in-kind.
• Retaining walls with pronounced leans or cracks should be disassembled and rebuilt with the same stones used to face a new back-up wall of concrete block or poured concrete. If replacement stone is necessary, it should match the existing in size, color, profile and other distinguishing features. New mortar joints should also match the existing in size, color and profile.